Wednesday, June 8, 2016

June 3 8-Day Rainier at Schurman


After several days of training in the lower Winthrop glacier, our team moved up to Camp Schurman this morning with hopes to summit early tomorrow morning, weather willing and the creek don't rise!

Glacier travel

This is how you rappel

A guide's work is never done

Schurman or bust

Photos: Devin Bishop & Dylan Cembalski 

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Saturday, June 4, 2016

8-Day Rainier: Days 1& 2

Super warm weather has made this trip a sweat shop, but the sun is sure nice! The team is doing strong work: yesterday with heavy loads to camp at Glacier Basin, and today with a steep haul up and over St. Elmo's Pass to camp on the Winthrop glacier. 

View of the Emmons from the White River trail 

Pitching camp at Glacier Basin

Humping loads up St. Elmo's Pass

Enjoying the spectacular setting at St. Elmo's 

You mean we get to camp here?

Photos: Devin Bishop

Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

May 30 4 Day Emmons Climb: at Camp Schurman

May 30 4 Day Emmons Climb is at Camp Schurman doing well at early to bed after a burrito dinner - summit attempt tomorrow

Monday, May 30, 2016

May 18 Ten-Day Course wraps it up

Inclement weather kept our first ten-day course from summiting Mount Baker last week, though a valiant attempt in an extreme whiteoute was made. 
Lead guide Devin Bishop navigating blind on the Easton Glacier. (photo: guide John V.)

Weather for the Rainier portion was much improved and the team enjoyed spectacular settings on their approach to the Kautz Glacier route. 

Day One:
Upper mountain view (photo: Devin B.)

Sunset over clouds (photo: Devin B.)

Day Two:
Approaching high camp (photo: John V.)

High camp (photo: Devin B.)

Day Three:
Snow conditions slowed our team down on summit day, but the climbers enjoyed an exciting ascent of the Kautz ice chute before turning around at 12,000 ft. 
So awesome! (Photo: Devin B.)

Rocking the Kautz (photo: Jangbu Sherpa)

Jangbu's team in the upper ice chute (photo: Devin B.)

Climbing the upper Kautz chute (photo: Jangbu Sherpa)

Day four:
We descended back into the clouds and battled our way back through whiteout and soft snow to Paradise. Good times. 
Final stretch across the Nisqually Glacier (photo: Jangbu Sherpa)

Saturday, May 28, 2016

May 26 3 Day Muir Climb: SUMMIT

Alpine Ascents International's May 26 3 Day Muir climb put 5 of 8 clients on the crater rim summit in "full" (wintery) conditions at 09.15 am

Friday, May 27, 2016

Alpine Ascents International 3 Day Muir Climb


We are now at high camp planning our summit bid for tonight. 

Alpine Ascents International - May 25, 3 Day Muir Climb


Alpine Ascents International 3 Day Muir Climb made it to Camp Muir on Thursday and enjoyed the view and weather above the clouds

Friday, May 20, 2016

May 20 3-Day Muir Climb: Full and Sleepy

The May 20th 3-Day Muir climb is safe and sound in bed with bellies full of fresh burritos at Camp Muir after making great time up here today!

Thursday, May 19, 2016

Cascades 10-day Course: Day Two

After a long challenging day of hiking through varied precipitation, we finally arrived at Sandy Camp on Mount Baker. Time for dinner and bed!

Ready to go!
Pitching camp at 6,200ft. 
Photos: Devin Bishop

5/18 3-Day Muir Climb Update



Senior Guide Michael Horst called in from Camp Muir- it's a beautiful day, and the team is above a sea of clouds. The team is looking forward to moving up to Ingraham Flats this afternoon. The team is optimistic about the possibility of a summit attempt!

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Cascades 10-day Course: Day One

Spent the afternoon at Mt. Erie soaking in views of the Puget Sound and practicing basic rock craft and rescue skills. Now we're headed to Burlington for burritos! 
Matt getting his rappel on

Belay skills

Prussiking 

(Photos by Devin Bishop)

Monday, May 16, 2016

May 14 Rainier Team Summits

Despite waist deep snow, our 5/14 team summited this morning and are heading back down the mountain.

Saturday, May 14, 2016

Muir Climb May 12-14: Summit Success!

A windless start ended in a full-on whiteout summit, but our team got it done in style. Good times!
Photo: Devin Bishop

Friday, May 13, 2016

Muir Climb May 12-14: Day Two

After a full morning of snow skills, the team arrived in style this afternoon at Ingraham Flats high camp. Weather is good and the route is reportedly in stellar shape. We'll be resting up for an early morning summit push. Wish us luck!
Cruising into high camp
Little Tahoma

(photos by Devin Bishop)

Thursday, May 12, 2016

Muir Climb May 12-14: Day One

Everyone recently arrived at Muir in a solid push. Strong work!  Weather was perfect and views were magnificent. After a little rest it will be time for burritos and bed!

  Walking the snowfield (Photo: Devin Bishop)

5/8 6-Day Course Summits Baker!

After almost a week of learning the ropes of mountaineering (literally), the entire 5/8 6-Day mountaineering course summited Mount Baker today.  Way to pass the final exam!

5/10 Rainier Climb Summits!

The 5/10 team made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  It was a windy one!  The team made it back down to Camp Muir safely and they are getting ready to descend the snowfield.  Congrats!

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

5/10 Rainier Summit Climb at High Camp!

After a learning the ropes  (pun intended) of glaciated travel in snow school this morning, the team roped up and headed to high camp at Ingraham Flats.   It's a beautiful afternoon in the thin(ish) air!  

5/10 Rainier Summit Climb: Enjoys Beautiful Weather at Camp Muir


Our team just checked in from Camp Muir.   As you can see, it's a bluebird day on the mountain today.   The team is feeling good and starting to get excited for a summit attempt early next morning.  Good luck!

Tuesday, May 10, 2016

First Team of the year Summit Rainier !

Love to see the first team make the summit - Congrats and thanks Nick Mullan for the photo !

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Ingraham high camp is ready for the season

Carried supplies to Ingraham Flats at 11,200 ft. on Rainier today and established high camp a day ahead of our first summit climb of the season. Lots of shoveling and tent pitching, but it's all buffed out and ready for climbers. It's getting breezy now and the temperature is dropping. Spring time in the mountains it is. 

Photo by guide Devin Bishop

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Final preparations for the 2016 Rainier summit season are underway

A large group of guides from both AAI and IMG are staged at Muir this evening. We will be working on the upper mountain tomorrow doing route work and establishing high camp at Ingraham Flats. Our first summit climb of the season will head to Muir tomorrow!

View from Muir. (Photo: Devin Bishop)

4/30 Denali Prep: Summits!

The 4/30 Denali Prep summited Rainier early Friday morning!  The team is a little tired but really excited that they snuck in an early season summit.  They took the somewhat spicy Ingraham Direct route to the top.  Congratulations team!

Thursday, May 5, 2016

4/30 Denali Prep: Works on Crevasse Rescue

It's another beautiful day on Rainier!  Our 4/30 Denali Prep just checked in from lovely Camp Muir.  They are working on crevasse rescue while enjoying stellar views.