Friday, August 30, 2013

8/27 3 day holding pattern

We have decided to spend a second night at Camp Muir due to high winds. Last night's high gust cam around 0100 and blew 83 mph. Luckily we are all safe and sound hunkered in the hut up here practicing the alpine cower technique. With an improving forecast tomorrow we saddle up the ton tons and head out to see how high we can get. And I thought... They smelled bad... On the outside!
Ton ton riding on Rainier
Looking toward the hut.
The aftermath.

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

6-day mountaineering course checks in from Mt. Baker

Lead guide Stuart Robertson called to check in from Mt. Baker. Depending on how the weather plays out, the team is will make a summit attempt when they get the best weather window in the next few days. Stuart reported all are in good spirits and everyone is doing well.

Monday, August 26, 2013

Blustery Summit for 8/24 summit climb

The 3 day Muir team summited this morning at 0645. Despite blustery conditions, low visibility, and rime ice on everything we made our way to the crater for a brief and very cold respite before beginning our descent. Nice work Ian, Brian, and Walter negotiating ladders, crevasses, fixed lines and steepness en route to summit glory.
High camp
Ice axe a la rime.

Friday, August 23, 2013

Aug 22-24 Rainier climb...100% success!

Lead guide Dave Watson checked in to say that the whole team is safely back at high camp after everyone made the summit! They encountered windy, cold conditions on the climb, but all are doing well and ready for some well deserved rest.

Aug. 18- 23 6-day Mountaineering course

Lead guide Devin Bishop just checked in from getting a bite to eat at the Skagit River Brewery with the 6-day participants and guide Nick Mullan. The group successfully summitted Mt. Baker yesterday at about 6pm, putting their skills into practice to climb the mountain. Thanks to Devin for the highlight reel below...







August 22-24 Rainier



The weather's not bad above the low cloud layer!


Lhakpa Gelu cooking eggs and bacon for breakfast this morning. Yum!

The team is headed to Ingraham Flats, and then eventually to the summit hopefully!

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Fire season

We had a great perspective of a forest fire just started east of the mountain. As the sun went down we could see the glow of the flames in the distance. I only regret we didn't have s'more fixins!

Also psyched we managed to summit and enjoy a lovely sunrise after crossing 3 ladders!

August 20-22 Rainier climb

The guides called to check in yesterday after making good time up to Camp Muir on Tuesday. With beautiful weather, and stomachs full of pancakes, bacon, eggs, and coffee, the climbers spent a few hours on snow school, learning how to move efficiently and effectively in crampons and as a rope team. The group then headed to our Ingraham Flats high camp, and planned to get some rest before a summit attempt in the early hours this morning.

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Aug. 16-18 Baker climb

Here's a couple photos from last weekend's successful Mt. Baker climb. Thanks to guide Dylan Cembalski for the dramatic shots! The weather cooperated enough for100% summit success.




Monday, August 19, 2013

Having fun at Camp Muir.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Emmons Team Summit Attempt Thursday

Lead guide Eitan Green called to report that a mix of blowing snow/rain and poor visibility forced the team to turn around at about 11,600' on their summit attempt. A wet low pressure system has been moving through the region this week, which the group experienced first-hand. They headed back to Camp Shurman to get warm and dry, and are heading out to the White River trailhead this morning. Mountain weather can be humbling any time of year!

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

At camp Schurman

We are up at camp Schurman enjoying the views and the cool cloud formations. We will be climbing tonight. Wish us luck!

August 10-12 Juniper Fund Climb success!

Alpine Ascents guide Dave Morton, and fellow First Ascent athlete & RMI guide Melissa Arnot led a fundraising and awareness climb for their newly founded non-profit The Juniper Fund (www.thejuniperfund.org), along with guides Lakpa Rita Sherpa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa. The team had great weather and a successful summit attempt, with many laughs along the way. Thanks to Dave for the photos below!



Emmons climbers moving to Camp Schurman

This photo is from an Emmons climb last week, looking out from a perch up on the Inter Glacier. The current Emmons climb camped in the same area last night (around 8,000 ft), and is moving up to Camp Schurman today. Lead guide Eitan Green checked in saying all is well. 


Mt. Olympus Fred Hutch Climb Success (and Birthdays!)

The Mt. Olympus Fred Hutch CLIMB had a successful summit this week, with beautiful weather and stunning surroundings in the Olympic National Park. While on the trip, Lead Guide Seth Timpano and climber Lynn Lippert both celebrated their birthdays on August 13th. Happy birthday to you both! The climbers are still on the Olympic Penninsula, but when they are able to send some photos we'll post those as well.

13-day course checks in

Michael Horst called to check in from Mt. Shuksan, letting us know that all is going well on the first part of the 13-day program. They've been learning mountaineering skills and put those skills into action with  a successful summit yesterday (Tuesday). They even had time to do a little ice climbing on the way down! The next section will be rock-focused, with the location being somewhat dependent on the forecast. We'll post another update when we hear more, but for now Micahel and the climbers are doing really well and enjoying the smaller team learning environment.

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Beautiful day at Camp Muir

Another gorgeous day on Mt. Rainier. The team is practicing skills and preparing to move to the Ingraham Flats. Every one is doing well and excited for our summit bid. Gale says she is pshyched!

Monday, August 12, 2013

Mt. Baker climb success!

Guides Eric Salazar and Pasang Lhamu Sherpa led climbers to the summit of Mt. Baker this weekend, avoiding the thunderstorms along the way, and enjoying the views from the summit.



Aug 8-10 climb summits

Another successful Fred Hutch Climb for Breast Cancer!
 Thanks to Lisa for the shots with the  FH banner at Ingraham Flats and on the Summit.



And to Devin for the great shadow photo from the upper mountain.




Friday, August 9, 2013

August 6-8 Rainier climb summits!

The 3-day Rainier climb headed up for a sunset climb on the afternoon of August 7th to avoid the crowds on the route, and summitted in the evening before heading back to Ingraham Flats for some well deserved rest. The group descended and returned to Seattle yesterday afternoon.

Thursday, August 8, 2013

Emmons climb summits

Great group, beautiful day, off to have Some beers!

Monday, August 5, 2013

8-5 Emmons

It was a beautiful hike to our camp at 7800 feet here on the Inter Glacier. Everyone's doing well and enjoying a relaxing afternoon. 

Alpine Rock


Though we are well known at Alpine Ascents for our aptitude in avoiding crevasses and traveling to the highest of altitudes on giant mountains, no climbing resume is complete without some low altitude romps through some alpine rock.

Fellow guide, Matt, and I took our day off to go explore  vertical crack climbing in the Enchantments on a route called Acid Baby. We found excellent climbing and phenomenal alpine positions with views over the Enchantment Lakes and Stuart Range. It was a great day and we would love to share some alpine rock with you as a part of our private guiding program.

Friday, August 2, 2013

July 31- Aug. 2 Rainier climb Summits!




Another successful climb on Rainier! The clouds may have obscured the view, but not the ability to reach the summit. The mountain is seeing much cooler temps the past few days which is helping out with snow conditions for the climb. The cold actually made the battery on the iPhone die quickly, so the guides were unable to send an update from the mountain. But the team is all back down, safe and sound and in Seattle, just in time for the SeaFair festivities this weekend!

Thursday, August 1, 2013

3-day Rainier climb summits!

As you can see in these photos, what's being called the "Mile Marker 28" fire, down near Goldendale, WA, has been affecting the views around Mt. Rainier over the past six days. The team was still able to summit successfully in the early hours yesterday. Thanks to Tom Chambers for the photos.



Baker summit

We don't often put up posts from private climbs, but Devin Bishop's photos are always so great, we wanted to share. Devin and Kirah took a group of four up Mt. Baker, with everyone summitting via the Easton glacier on Tuesday.







Kautz team checks in

Lead guide Matt Hegeman called to check in from high camp at the top of the Turtle snowfield, and sent along this lovely pic as well. The group was doing well and were set up at high camp when an electrical storm passed through, adding a bit of excitement to the afternoon. The team is all fine and looking to attempt the summit today.