Monday, August 31, 2009

Thursday, August 27, 2009

8/27/09 Noon: -Rainier Camp Muir Update : Just spoke with lead guide Suzanne at Camp Muir. Teams are looking to put in a new route but currently a combination of the old and new - so a bit of a transition between routes. Overall, weather and climbing conditions are quite good .

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Roger Mellem slideshow

Last night we had the honor of meeting Dee Molenaar in Seattle(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dee_Molenaar) at a slide show by Roger Mellem. The presentation was on a climbing trip with Willi Unsoeld and friends inPakistan 1974.

Monday, August 17, 2009

Baker climb summits! Rainier route looking good!

Our Mt. Baker climb topped out on Saturday, August 15th. They reported good weather and route conditions.

Our Rainier climb made the top yesterday as well! Today one of our guides has joined guides from another company to work on the Muir route above the Disappointment cleaver. Our team called in from the Ingraham Flats "high camp" to report great weather, they will be going for summit early tomorrow morning.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Rainier climb hoping for good weather!

Our Rainier climb camped at the Ingraham Flats high camp is positined for a summit attempt tomorrow, and currently observing foggy conditions, however, they are not reporting any precipatation.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Craig Luebben

We are sad to have lost such as great person who contributed so much to the climbing community. See article here: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2009636280_climber11m.html

Monday, August 10, 2009

Eldorado climb successful!

Our Eldorado Peak climb made the summit and reported great route conditions! However, our guide noted conditions appear to resemble what we normally encounter in late August/early September, as the warm weather this summer has been significant.

Our Mt. Baker climb topped out on Baker on Saturday and reported great conditions on the Easton Glacier! The route has become slightly more circuitous with 2 large crevasses our group climbed around.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Alpine Ascents climb update

Our Mt. Rainier Emmons Glacier climb reported good route conditions and summit success, although the Inter Glacier was nearly all ice in some sections and had running streams of water coming down it. This was our last Emmons Glacier climb of the year.

Today we have a group supporting the Washington National Park Fund climbing Eldorado, and should hear back from them on the climb and route conditions in a few days.

Our Mt. Baker climb set off today to climb the Easton Glacier, looks like decent weather this weekend for their climb!

Thursday, August 6, 2009

August 6th Rainier summit!
















The Alpine Ascents team summit Rainier today! They reported great route conditions and awesome weather! See photos below of the climb.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

August 5th, 2009 Rainier photos
















Here are 3 photos taken today by one of our Rainier guides, Jeff Justman, as the group arrived at our Ingraham Flats "High Camp" today! As you can see the weather is great! You can see the tents at high camp that the group will be sleeping in tonight, as well as the view from our camp up toward the Disappointment Cleaver and Ingraham Icefall. The photo with the sharp peak is Little Tahoma, currently the group is having their summit talk before going to bed early in preparation for an alpine start!








Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Alpine Ascents Rainier climb, August 4 update

Our August 2-4 Rainier climb reached the summit today and reported great route conditions. Our group climbed to the top of Disappointment Cleaver, traversed across the Emmons glacier to the Emmons shoulder and up to 13,800' to a large crevasse. At this point we traversed south around this crevasse and then switchbacked directly up to the crater rim.

Even with the recent heat wave the glaciated slopes of the upper mountain seem to be holding together well, and should remain in good condition through our climbing season!