Muir 27-29

The group had an excellent morning and a great climb up to 12,600 feet on the DC route. Unfortunately, all the recent snow was still too unstable to safely and confident ascend higher, and that was our high point for this trip. Everyone is happy and back at Muir enjoying some coffee and we are headed back to Seattle this afernoon.
-seth

June 27-29 3day Climb checks in

Lead guide Seth Timpano just called in from a windy Camp Muir. The group got pretty wet on the hike up to Muir yesterday, but everyone made it safely and is doing well. They are psyched to see the sun starting to peak out this morning, and hope to dry out as the day continues. Due to heavy snowfall over the past few days, IMG and Alpine Ascents guides are working to dig out and re-set up high camp at Ingraham Flats. After snow school this morning the team will rope up and move in to the tents at the Flats, in preparation for a summit attempt during the early hours tomorrow.

Update from the June 20-27 Rainier 8-day mountaineering course

The team was unable to make a summit attempt due to unstable snow conditions on the upper mountain. The group still "went for a walk" up the Corridor to see what the route looked like and to test the snow. The weather continued to be blustery and snowy throughout the final two days, when the group descended back to White River trailhead and then back to Seattle. Despite the lack of a summit, the climbers were able to learn and practice important mountaineering skills for safe mountain adventures in the future.

 Lead guide Eitan Green utilizes all available resources for mountain travel on Rainier:

Fuhrer Finger climb

A quick update from lead guide Jonathon Spitzer on the Fuhrer Finger-

 Yesterday we left Paradise with excellent climbing conditions on the lower mountain. We had patchy clouds and a light breeze to help keep us cool on our first day of climbing.  We traversed the lower Nisqually glacier and ascended up the Wilson glacier to around 8,400ft. 

We spent the night here and woke up to heavy rain and moderate winds.  Our goal is to move up to around 9600ft today on the Wilson glacier.

Thanks and we hope the forecast this weekend stays true!

 Jonathon

June 25-27 Rainier Climb

The June 25-27th climbers had a successful hike up to Camp Muir on Day One, but unfortunately the weather was not in their favor. The team experienced wind gusts up to 60mph and roughly two feet of snow, which drifted much higher in places at Muir. The team still braved the elements and went out around Muir to complete snow school in the a.m. The break in the weather they hoped for didn't materialize and the team headed back down to Paradise today. Thanks to Pasang Sherpa for the photos below.

 The approach to Muir 

 Heading up!

Guides Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and Carrie Parker staying warm in the Weatherport at Camp Muir

8day Emmons Climb

The Rainier 8-day climbers safely navigated their way up the Winthrop Glacier to Camp Schurman today. 

Pics from the N.Cascades

IFMGA guide Jonathon Spitzer took a long-time Alpine Ascents climber out to the North Cascades last weekend. The goal is to get him ready for climbing the Matterhorn in 2014.  Despite the ominous weather forecast they had a very productive training climbing technical rock routes mixed with steep snow in there boots and crampons.  In addition to the beauty of Washington Pass they had some lovely visitors at the base of one of their climbs.

3-day Muir June 23-25

The 3-day climbers had a full mountain experience, although they were unable to make a summit attempt this morning. It rained quite a bit on Sunday on the way up to Camp Muir, although it was snowing at Muir itself. On Monday, everyone braved the elements for an awesome snow school taught by guide "the" Tom Chambers. After snow school, the weather broke on the way to Ingraham Flats, for a beautiful sunset yesterday evening. When the team awoke at 12:30am this morning, as hot drinks were being made, the wind picked up and weather came in, with billowing snow engulfing the tents. The team waited until 5:30am to see if the weather would abate, but sadly the weather window did not arrive. The winds continued to pick up, and the team headed down in gusty conditions. Everyone made it down safely and are currently heading back to Seattle.

 A break in the weather at Camp Muir on Day 2

8-day Rainier course checks in

Guides Eitan Green and Matt Nightengale called to check in from a soggy Mt. Rainier. The group has been practicing skills and learning the art of staying warm and dry in rainy conditions. Besides Matt running out of jellybeans already, the team is doing well and will be moving to Camp Schurman tomorrow, where hopefully they will get about the freezing level.

June 21-23 Summits!

A snowy summit on Sunday morning. Despite the lack of a clear view, the team was psyched to make the summit and headed back down safely.

3-day Climb June 21-23

Snow school! Guide Jangbu Sherpa led the climbers in self-arrest practice, crampon use, and rope-team travel before heading up to Ingraham Flats.

June 19-21 Muir Climb

Early morning climbing on Mt. Rainier!

June 17-19 Rainier Summit

The team was able to climb above the clouds and weather for a successful summit yesterday! Everyone enjoyed a nice meal in Ashford before heading back to Seattle in the evening.

June 16-19 Emmons climb Summits!

Lead guide Jonathon Spitzer called in reporting that all is well and the team was safely back at Camp Schurman last night after summitting yesterday. With prevailing winds from the south, the team didn't encounter the forecasted high winds until closer to the summit. They experienced 50mph winds on the summit, but descended safely back to Camp and were resting up by the afternoon. Today they will hike back to the White River trailhead, and return to Seattle.

The "Mountain Slayers" post-summit

June 17-19 3-day Rainier climb

Windy night at Camp Muir but a calmer morning. Great crew here on our June 17-19 climb. We are crossing our fingers for nice weather tonight.

Saturday- Monday 3-day Climb summits!

Despite windy conditions, the 3-day Rainier climb led by Garrett Madison, Matt Nightengale, Lakpa Gelu Sherpa, and Dave Heinbach summitted in the early hours today. The team was back down at Muir by late morning and packing up for the descent to Paradise. Great job folks!

Emmons climb checks in

The June 16-19 Emmons climb checked in today. Everyone made it up to Camp Schurman in good style and were enjoying an afternoon nap, according to Lead guide Jonathon Spitzer. Thanks to Jonathon for the great photo.

June 13-15 Summit photo~

Beautiful weather for the summit on Saturday! Thanks to guide Devin Bishop for the summit shot.

The summit was achieved in near perfect conditions. Rare views of the Olympic Mountains were enjoyed at Columbia Crest. The team is now headed down the Muir Snowfield and looking forward to refreshments in Ashford. 

Team trains for climb

Today our team is training for the climb, learning self arrest, crampon technique, & rope travel pertaining to the glaciated climb ahead. All are in good spirits. As the photo illustrates there is a big cloud over the upper mountain and the wind has picked up, keep your fingers crossed that tomorrow we have good weather for our summit attempt!

Garrett Madison

June 10-14 Liberty Ridge climb

Liberty Ridge team summits!

10-day Mountaineering course checks in

Lead guide Michael Horst called to check in this morning from the south side of Mt. Baker. The 10-day participants are all doing super well. The group is camped at 4,600' and learning to deal with adverse weather in the mountains as it's been raining for the past day or so. The forecast calls for improvement and mostly sunny weather this afternoon thru Sunday morning, so Michael and guide Peter Moore plan to make the most of it with skills practice and a summit attempt in the next couple days.

Muir climb June 14

Enjoying breakfast on a beautiful bluebird morning at Camp Muir this morning. The walk up yesterday had its challenges with the weather, but we endured and are reaping the fruits of our labor today! Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to learning some snow skills and moving to high camp this afternoon.

June 11-13 Summit

The 3-day Muir/ DC climb successfully summitted this morning as well. Garrett Madison reported calm weather and that the route is in great condition. 

June 7-14th 8-day Emmons summits!

The first 8-day mountaineering course and Emmons climb summitted today! The climbers were able to ascend above the weather, enjoying a calm summit this morning. They are all safely back at Camp Schurman where they will spend one more night before packing up and heading out to tomorrow. 

June 9-11 3-day summits!

11 climbers and guides summited Mt. Rainier in the early hours on June 11th. The route is in great shape currently, heading fairly directly up from the top of Disappointment Cleaver, with just a short traverse around the bergschrund at 13,500'. Congratulations to the group!

Liberty Ridge climbers move up

The Liberty Ridge team has moved up to Thumb Rock and is preparing for a summit push. Good luck climbers!

Climbers train for ascent of Rainier!

We awoke this morning to beautiful weather, clear skies above the sea of clouds, & zero wind at camp Muir (10,080'). After a hearty breakfast, our team trains on the cowlitz glacier to learn self arrest with the ice axe, crampon technique, and rope travel. This afternoon we will climb to our high camp on the Ingraham Flats (11,000') and prepare for an alpine start around 1 AM to ascend to the summit of Mt. Rainier. Wish us luck in our bid to climb Washington's highest peak, known in Seattle simply as "The Mountain."

-Garrett Madison, Rainier Guide

Liberty Ridge climb checks in

Guides Matt Hegeman and Eitan Green called in for a forecast today and are strategizing for the summit attempt on Liberty Ridge. The climbers are enthusiastic and looking forward to the challenge, and we hope the weather holds enough to give them a shot at the summit. Best of luck to the team!

8-day Mountaineering program doing great!

Lead guide Lee Lazzara called to check in from the June 7-14th Rainier 8-day training course. The group has enjoyed great weather over the past few days, and has been using it to their advantage for dialing in skills. Tomorrow they head up to Camp Schurman, located at around 9,440', where two additional guides will meet them in the late afternoon. With a full team of four guides and eight climbers, the team will prepare for their summit attempt up the Emmons route on Thursday. 

A few photos from June 7-9 Rainier climb

Thanks to guide Devin Bishop for passing along these great shots from the climb over the weekend.

Heading up!

 Looking back at Camp Muir with Mount St. Helens in the distance.

The upper mountain. Climbers are just barely visible.

Summit attempt 06/09/13 3-day Muir climb

The team is currently making a Mt. Rainier summit attempt under beautiful starry skies. The weather is cold but calm and the team is both strong and excited to be climbing in such great conditions. Wish us luck, woohoo!

3 Day Muir June 8

Enjoying breakfast at Muir this morning. Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to snow school this afternoon. Weather is splitter: blue skies and light winds - bodes well for our move to high camp today! Good times!

June 5-7 Muir climb

Everybody on the summit!

June 5th Ingraham Flats

Thanks to guide Tom Chambers for this photo of our camp at Ingraham Flats. Guides have been doing lots of digging after the recent heavy snowfall!

100% Success on 3-day Rainier!

The weather cleared out and the snow pack consolidated enough for the June 3-5 3-day climbers to make a summit attempt...and 100% succeeded! Congratulations to the whole team.

June 3-5 Rainier climb

Lead guide Lee Lazzara called to check in this morning. The team moved well getting up to Muir yesterday under clear skies. Climbers practiced self-arrest and climbing in crampons this morning before heading out to move up to Ingraham Flats. The weather and conditions are looking good for a summit attempt in the early hours tomorrow. Best of luck to all the climbers!

Recap from 6-day Mountaineering course

On May 26th, nine climbers along with guides Jonathon Spitzer and Tom Chambers left the Seattle office to start a 6-day mountaineering course.  This course was conducted deep in the heart of the North Cascades National Park on Sahale Peak.   During the course, the climbers encountered unfavorable weather with heavy rain and snow at times.  The weather did not prevent them from having an excellent course and covering in depth mountaineering subjects, however.  The mountainous environment was perfect for teaching avalanche prevention, white-out navigation, and mountain weather during the  course.

Thanks to all our participants for coming to join us on our 6-day mountaineering program!

 "Texas Tom" instructing glaciology up on the Quien Sabe Glacier. 

Group shot during the few moments it wasn't raining