Thursday, July 31, 2014
July 27-August 1st 6-day Course Summits Baker!
Guide Victor McNeil just called in from the summit of Baker! The team is enjoying the sunny weather on the summit, are taking photos, and then getting ready to head down. They will head back to Seattle tomorrow. Congrats to the team!
July 30-August 1st 3-day Muir
The 3-day Rainier climb just called to check in and have reported bluebird skies and beautiful weather. They are currently at Camp Muir preparing to head up to High Camp. They are planning on attempting a sunset climb of the mountain. Best of luck to the team!
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
July 28th-31st Emmons Climb Summits!
We just heard from Guide Brent Langlinais who called in to say that the team summitted! They are back at Camp Schurman enjoying the sunshine and beautiful weather and resting up. They will head back down tomorrow. Nice work!
Monday, July 28, 2014
Fred Hutch Mt. Baker Climbs summit!
July 26th-28th 3-Day Muir Climb
Guide Dennis Haskell called from Rainier to say that the group is doing great and is in high spirits. They are enjoying the sunshine on the mountain! They were preparing for a summit attempt early this morning.
Saturday, July 26, 2014
July 24-26 Baker Climb – Success!
Had a beautiful climb yesterday afternoon and enjoyed a sunset summit with the shadow of the mountain behind us. Now we're headed to the Skagit River Brewery for grub!
Friday, July 25, 2014
July 20-25 6-Day Course Attempts Sahale Peak
We just heard from Peter Moore on the 6-day course. The team had a great trip and are on their way back to Seattle. Early this morning they made a summit attempt of Sahale Peak when they had a break in the weather. They made it to the saddle, but they headed back down due to snowfall on the summit pyramid. The team is happy to see the sun!
July 24-26 Baker Climb: Day Two
Weather is great, snow school is done – time to summit this thing! Going for an afternoon stroll, hope to be back in time for dinner.
Snow school fun:
7/24 Rainer Team
Guides: Brent, Joda, Travis, and Josh
Looking South at Mt. Adams, Hood, and Jefferson with the Tatoosh Range in the foreground.
After a windy, wet ascent up the Muir Snowfield, the team setteled into camp at 10,200 with an evening of hot drinks, great views, and dinner. Spirits are high as day two gets under way and blue skies lead us to high camp. We'll take a brief rest and prepare for our summit push late tonight!
Photos: Joda Hankins
Kautz and 3-day climbs descend in wet weather
While the sun has returned this morning, it wasn't soon enough for the the July 22nd Disappointment Cleaver and Kautz climbs. The DC climbers got 6+ inches of snow overnight on the 23rd and it kept snowing throughout the day, with windy conditions. They could see our Kautz team's tents over on the Wilson glacier, where folks were staying dry and warm, but didn't have a break in the weather to move higher on the mountain. Once again, nature proves to be unpredictable during the typically most stable high pressure weather in Washington (July and August). The system has moved out now, and we are looking at a beautiful forecast for the weekend!
Rock climbing trip back after successful week!
The rock climbing course returned yesterday evening after a great week out on the rock in Washington. The group started in Leavenworth, working on techniques and getting out climbing on a lot of great routes. The weather cooperated until mid-week when they decided to head east escape the rain. Instead they were able to climb on beautiful basalt columns and enjoy 70degree and sunny weather! Everyone had a great time and came back looking sun-kissed and happy.
Thursday, July 24, 2014
July 24-26 Baker Climb: Day One
All settled in to camp for the afternoon. Team made a strong push in marginal weather - good job! Making dinner now and preparing for a nice long sleep.
Kautz climbers waiting for weather to improve
The Kautz climbers are at camp but say the weather has improved somewhat this morning. They are going to give it a few more hours to see if things dry out a bit before deciding whether or not to push up to high camp. Fingers crossed!
Wednesday, July 23, 2014
July 22-25 Kautz climb checks-in
There is a low pressure system moving through western Washington yesterday and today, bringing precipitation and thunder/lightening to the area. The Kautz team just checked in from Camp 1 at around 8,500' on the Wilson Glacier. Everyone is doing well and taking a weather day at camp as the conditions make it unreasonable to move up to high camp yet. Lakpa Rita says everyone is in good shape and feeling strong, and they have their fingers crossed for an improvement in the weather tomorrow. If so they will move up to high camp tomorrow and go for the summit early on Friday before heading back down to Paradise.
Storm day at camp Muir
The team just enjoyed a delicious breakfast and is now getting started with some skills training. We had thunder and lightning last night and some fresh snow this morning.
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
July 20-22 Rainier climb summits!
The Rainier 3-day climbers tagged the crater on their summit attempt today in tough but manageable weather. The guides from all the guide services have been working hard to maintain the route and their work paid off with the successful summit! The team is safely down off the mountain and enjoying a meal in Ashford currently. They'll be heading back to Seattle in the next couple hours. And Happy Birthday to guide Danny Ozment, who was on the climb!
Update from the 8-day Emmons course
Unfortunately the weather moved in over night and upon awakening at 3am to check the weather for the summit attempt, the guides discovered it was significantly raining out. A couple hours later it was still raining, with a forecast that was not improving for the entire day. The team did not make a summit attempt and instead slept in this morning. The team is disappointed but in good spirits and is making a plan for their descent and return to Seattle.
6-day course calls to check in
The 6-day course called to check in from Boston Basin. The group is all doing well. They have moved up to a higher camp on snow to be closer to the action where they can practice snow skills. Today they have practiced knots and movement on snow, and will spend the afternoon working on rope team travel. They are looking at a summit attempt on Thursday if they get a weather window. In the meantime they will work on crevasse rescue and other mountaineering skills, while enjoying beautiful Boston Basin.
8-day Emmons course making a summit attempt today
The 8-day Emmons course with Stuart and Nick moved up to high camp at Camp Schurman yesterday. They made it to camp mid-afternoon, giving the team time to set up and get some rest. The team is making their summit attempt today and will be back at Camp Schurman for this evening. Tomorrow they will descend to the White River trailhead and wrap up the trip with a delicious meal on the way back to Seattle in the afternoon.
July 20-22 Rainier climbers having a great time
The July 20-22 Rainier 3-day climbers have had a great trip so far. They enjoyed better than predicted weather yesterday, which was a pleasant surprise. The team rested up at high camp yesterday afternoon and headed for the summit in the early hours this morning.
Monday, July 21, 2014
July 18-20 Muir Climb update
Hutch climbers made a valiant attempt at the summit yesterday, but were turned back after several determined efforts to cross a crumbling snow bridge at 13,000 feet. They were treated to a spectacular sunrise though.
Little Tahoma from Disappointment Cleaver
Mt. Adams from atop Disappointment Cleaver
Saturday, July 19, 2014
July 18-20 Muir climb: Day Two
Everyone's in bed resting up for a summit bid tonight. We endured some breezy conditions at Muir during snow school this morning, but under sunny skies. The clouds and some precipitation moved in this evening – hope it all blows through so we can give it our best shot early tomorrow morning!
Don't have a lot of photos, but we enjoyed some beautiful wildflowers on our hike to Muir Friday:
Friday, July 18, 2014
Rainier in full summer!
July 16-18th 3-day Rainier climb
Mt Rainier Muir side summit team here. We are just now leaving Camp Muir for the Paradise trailhead, after a successful climb under clear skies and a fresh breeze. We left our high camp at 12:15am this morning and all 8 climbers and 4 guides reached the top at dawn. Now the talk has switched to options for a celebratory as we plunge step back to civilization. Thanks for following along.
~Brent
~Brent
Keeping the route in Shape!
The Disappointment Cleaver route sees hundreds of climbers each summer season, and the "route" doesn't maintain itself! Guides from Alpine Ascents, RMI, and IMG are constantly working to maintain and create a path we feel exposes climbers to the least hazards possible and makes the climb as straightforward as we can. Here, Kirah and Travis work on the section leaving from high camp at Ingraham Flats and approaching the Cleaver. Thanks for the photos Kirah-
Thursday, July 17, 2014
July 15-18 Emmons Summit Success!
We just received an update that the Emmons crew summitted today! Congrats to the team. They are now descending back to Camp Schurman where they will enjoy some well-deserved rest in the sunshine. Tomorrow morning they will pack up and head down the mountain and all the way back to Seattle.
July 14-16 3DM summits!
The July 14-16 Rainier climb was successful in summitting the route in the early hours yesterday. The team was glad for the cooler temps overnight for the summit attempt, and were treated to great views from the top despite some haze from fires in other parts of the state.
July 16-18 Rainier climb checks In
Hey guys. Mt Rainier Muir route 7/16-7/18 team here. Our climbers report sleeping soundly overnight at camp Muir, and bacon, eggs, pancakes, and coffee went down easily this morning. The route conditions are looking good for a summit attempt in the wee hours Friday morning and our group is feeling confident after some self arrest practice and roped team travel training. We are moving to high camp soon under clear skies, gentle breeze, an warm temperatures. Wish us luck! ~Brent
Wednesday, July 16, 2014
100% Summit success on the Kautz for the 10-day crew!
Congratulations to the 10-day course climbers! The entire team summitted Rainier via the Kautz glacier route. The route has considerable ice right now, making for some fun ice pitches in the middle of the climb. The team is off the mountain and has just arrived safely back at the office in Seattle.
Tuesday, July 15, 2014
July 14th-16th 3 Day Muir
Travis called to check in this morning from Camp Muir. The group is doing well and enjoying the beautiful weather. They were getting ready to start heading up to High Camp.
Monday, July 14, 2014
Successful summit for the July 12-14 Muir climb
The group enjoyed perfect conditions, summiting right at sunrise. Guide Devin Bishop sent the following photos along:
Success!
Crater fumerals
A busy day on the upper mountain
10-day course at high camp on the Kautz
The 10-day course just checked in from the Kautz. They are all settled in at high camp and enjoying miso soup in the afternoon sun. The team plans to leave camp around 1am for a summit attempt tomorrow, and the weather forecast looks stellar. The team is all doing well and in good spirits and everyone is excited about the summit attempt tomorrow.
Sunday, July 13, 2014
Muir Climb July 12-14 at high camp
Everyone just arrived at high camp in good form. Resting up now for a summit bid tonight.
Little Tahoma from high camp.
Friday, July 11, 2014
10-day course checks-in
The 10-day course checked in and all is well. The entire team summitted Baker and is enjoying the on-going fine weather. In fact it sounds like some folks are catching some rays sunbathing at the moment! Tomorrow morning the group will break down high camp and head back to the trailhead, and on to Seattle. They will have the afternoon/evening to rest up, catch a shower, sleep in a bed and eat a nice meal before heading to Rainier for an attempt on the Kautz starting on Sunday.
July 10-12 Rainier 3-day moving to high camp
The 3-day climb checked in earlier and the team is all doing well. They wrapped up a hearty breakfast of blueberry pancakes, bacon, and eggs before starting snow school. The team planned to leave for high camp around 10:30, giving them all afternoon to rest and relax before making their summit attempt in the early hours tomorrow.
Mt. Baker climb checks in
The July 10-12 Baker climbers are all doing great. They are at Sandy camp and resting before a summit attempt this afternoon. Everyone is in good spirits and appreciating the breeze which is keeping things a bit cooler.
Thursday, July 10, 2014
July 6th-11th 6-Day Course Summits Sahale Peak!
Victor just called to check in. All is well and the group just summited Sahale Peak. The have had beautiful weather for the week!
July 8-10 3-Day Rainier Summits!
The team just called to check in. They made it to the summit! They are resting up and getting ready to head down to Paradise.
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
July 8-10 Rainier climb doing great!
The 3-day Rainier climbers are all at high camp, enjoying the beautiful weather and resting up in preparation for their summit attempt. All is well with the group and they are looking forward to heading up!
Rich and Pablo relaxing at high camp
A view up from Ingraham Flats
10-day Course calls in from beautiful Baker
The guides called in to say all is well on Mt. Baker. The marmots are out in full force, and the views are awesome. The group finished up a lesson on anchors today, and will be doing crevasse rescue practice in the next day as well.
8-Day Emmons Climb Calls from the Summit- July 3rd-10th
Stuart just called in with the whole team on the summit! All is well, and they are having an awesome trip with beautiful weather.
June 28-July 10, 13-Day Climbing Trip
Pat Timson just called to check in from the 13-Day climbing trip. The team successfully summited Little Tahoma on Mt. Rainier. They spent yesterday climbing the Tooth in the Snoqualmie Pass area, and are headed to do some more rock climbing the next two days. The group is having some stellar weather and a great trip.
Tuesday, July 8, 2014
8-day Rainier course checks in
Stuart just called to check in from Camp Schurman on the 8-day Emmons course. The team is all doing great and moved up to high camp today in preparation for their summit attempt tomorrow. Two more guides are currently headed up to meet the group for the summit bid and will meet them at high camp.
The weather is beautiful and sunny, and is forecasted to remain that way for the next few days. Best of luck to the team!
The weather is beautiful and sunny, and is forecasted to remain that way for the next few days. Best of luck to the team!
July 6th-11th 6-Day Course
The 6-day course just called to check in. They are having a great trip with beautiful weather! They are practicing skills in Boston Basin, and they just finished up working on anchors.They will practice crevasse rescue tomorrow, and are planning a summit attempt of Sahale Peak on Thursday!
July 6-8 3 Day Muir Climb
The team checked in yesterday evening. They made it to High Camp! They were resting and preparing for a summit attempt around midnight!
Monday, July 7, 2014
July 3rd-10th 8-day Emmons
The 8-day Emmons course and climb called to check in today. The team is having a great trip! They are at Camp Schurman preparing for the summit attempt.
July 4-6 3 Day Rainier Climb
The team has arrived back in Seattle after a sunset summit attempt. The weather was pretty nice down low, but once they got up above High Camp, the weather turned and the group headed back down. They had a great trip!
Friday, July 4, 2014
Kautz July 1-4 climb: summit success!
Good conditions and strong work by all involved got us to the top of Mt. Rainier yesterday via the always exciting Kautz ice chute. Here's a taste:
Thursday, July 3, 2014
July 2nd-4th 3-Day Rainier Climb
The team called to check in today. They made it to High Camp and were resting and preparing for a sunset summit attempt. The group is doing well and are enjoying the sunshine.
Wednesday, July 2, 2014
Kautz July 1-4: Day Two
Tuesday, July 1, 2014
Kautz July 1-4: Day One
Everyone enjoyed a beautiful day on the Nisqually and Wilson glaciers today. Now we're ensconced in camp at 8,400 ft. for the night. Ciao!
Emmons Climb: June 29th- July 2nd
We just heard from the Emmons Team. Everyone made it to the summit! The team is doing well and is now resting at Camp Schurman.
13-Day Trip: June 28th- July 10th
Guide Pat Timson called to check in today from the 13-Day climbing trip. They are having a great trip with beautiful, hot weather. They spent the past few days climbing in Icicle Canyon.They stopped in Leavenworth today for cold beverages, and are headed back out to Ingalls Peak for the next few days.
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